Some say that watches are first and foremost tools; others argue that they are also jewels in full respect. The debate is still open, and a final answer might never come: there are too many factors to consider - size, case material, complications, style… however, in some cases, it’s pretty clear that a watch was not simply designed to tell the time, as its decorative qualities end unprevailing over the mere function.
Too often, such timekeepers are demised as “ladies’ watches” - as if a watch designed for the feminine wrist was less relevant than one for men, anyway. But, at the end of the day, taste is the most personal quality of human beings; and for this reason, everybody should be free to decide what watch to wear and enjoy.
Take, for instance, gem-set watches: for decades they’ve remained niche material, with very few collectors and enthusiasts passionately hunting them while most of the watch community didn’t seem to like their bold looks or understand the extreme skills required to craft similar objects.
Lately, however, things have changed: more and more people realised how rare and precious factory set watches are, and many previously unknown examples started surfacing.
Sure, wearing one is a statement, and we don’t expect everyone to want a full pavé Rolex Day-Date or a Cartier chronograph covered in diamonds.
On the other hand, though, we strongly believe it’s impossible not to acknowledge the intrinsic relevance of these watches: the mastery behind gem setting, especially on a canvas as complicated as a watch case, is something very few craftsmen can claim to have.
Bearing this in mind, falling in love with precious stones on wristwatches should be easier - and here are six notable examples to prove it.
Rolex Cellini King Midas ref. 4316
This 1975 Rolex is the right place to start the list: it’s intrinsically sober (almost minimal, really), but it packs the punch you’d expect from a gem set watch. Its rectangular case and brick bracelet, with links inspired by gold ingots, are absolutely understated.
The full pavé dial perfectly balances the straightforward geometries and elevates the watch while still being elegant and not too loud.
The configuration of this 4316 is extremely rare: very few units left the factory with no brand, model or coronet applied to the dial or glass, and this peculiarity further enhances the stealth appeal of the piece. You can buy it here or visit our boutique to try it on.
Rolex Cellini “Omani Khanjar” ref. 5071
Let’s remain in Geneva, and raise the stakes a little bit. The case of this second Cellini is also rectangular, but that’s evidently the only thing the two watches share. The material is now yellow gold, and the dial is a breathtaking plat of brilliant-cut diamonds and natural Mother-Of-Pearl scales.
The iridescent reflections of the inlays are echoed in the blue strap, and a small “Rolex” signature engraved in pure gold informs us that the watch comes from the master of gem setting.
As if this 1980s treasure wasn’t special enough, the case back reveals a bright red Khanjar, the national emblem of Oman, indicating the watch was gifted by Sultan Qaboos Bin Said Al Said most likely to a high-ranking foreign dignitary. Want to see more? Click here.
Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir ref. 2396g
Nobody masters high jewelry and fine watchmaking quite like Cartier, so this watch should come as no surprise.
However, the Tortue Monopusher chronograph is not usually seen under a shiny skin of white diamonds; most collectors know and love the model for its movement, the result of a joint venture between Dennis Flageollet, Vianney Halter and François-Paul Journe.
It was the crown jewel of the “CPCP” collection, and its quotations have been on a steep rise for years. Attractive as it is uncommon, this version of the legendary chronograph was likely manufactured in a very small number of units, further adding to its desirability.
Rolex Daytona 116589 MOP Dial
Back to Rolex, this time with a twist on the Daytona. The crowned chronograph is not new to diamonds, which first adorned its purpose-oriented design in the Eighties on the legendary 6269/6270 and have been a constant presence up to the modern “Rainbow”.
However, few iterations can boast the same elegance of the present 116589, sporting an under-the-radar configuration played around the shades of white which gives off strong “Himalaya Birkin” vibes.
Some might argue that the lack of a scaled bezel devoids the Daytona of its original function, but can you look at the Mother of Pearl dial and say you really care? Check it out here.
Piaget “Allah” Dial ref. 9081.A6
Ask anyone about the next big trends in watches and Piaget will likely be an answer. The French Maison is notoriously a specialist in stone dials and gem setting. The present watch, however, is highly uncommon even by Piaget standards - and according to our research might very well be a unique piece.
Coming from a batch of 23 units manufactured under the same reference, this is further elevated by the hand-carved “bark” finish on the bracelet and the Arabic script engraved on the dial and enriched by diamonds.
The elegant signature, starkly contrasting against the copper-red background, translates to “Allah”: the watch was originally commissioned through Piaget’s Middle-East dealer Mouawad. Buy it here.
Rolex Day-Date ref. 18388
If you’re not new to our website, you have probably noticed we have a sweet spot for the Rolex Day-Date. The presidential watch is one of our absolute favourite models, both for its history and the countless configurations it came in.
It’s a little known fact that, up until the early nineties, all parts of the watch could be specified at the time of purchase, selecting from an impossibly wide range of options. Furthermore, all parts were offered in many factory set variants.
The present example is the result of one such specification: the lugs and bezel are set in brilliant-cut diamonds, and the dial is entirely paved in identical stones. Blue sapphires highlight the hour markers, enhancing the legibility of this phenomenal piece. Read more about this stunning piece here.
If you still think a stainless steel sports watch is a more versatile watch, we won’t argue with that - you’re probably right.
But hopefully, this article showed how intriguing and diverse gem set watches can be: from an understated one that could be easily worn daily, to flamboyant unique pieces that could be the centrepiece of a majestic collection.
Our shop features even more pieces you will love, and we are constantly on the lookout for the best examples on the market: follow along if you want to see more and click here to explore our full collection.
