Every so often, a watch appears that makes us question if we’re really seeing it. Its beauty isn’t loud — it’s in the details, where the real magic lies. This 1970 Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a guilloché dial is exactly that kind of piece.
When we first saw it, our eyes were immediately drawn to the dial. Guilloché isn’t something you see often on Rolex, definitely not on an Oyster Perpetual. The engraved pattern gives the dial texture and depth: tilt it in the light and it seems to move.
It’s subtle, but it completely transforms the watch from a simple OP to a very rare and beautiful timepiece.The Oyster Perpetual
The Oyster Perpetual is one of Rolex’s most important creations. Back in 1926, Rolex introduced the Oyster case — the first waterproof watch case. It was a game changer. Then, in 1931, Rolex added the Perpetual movement (cal. 620), an automatic winding system that meant the watch could run on your wrist, without manual winding.
Together, these innovations formed the foundation of the Oyster Perpetual line: durable, precise, and built for everyday life. Over the decades, the OP became Rolex’s entry level watch - not flashy, but reliable, elegant, and endlessly versatile.
The reference 1005, produced in the 1960s and 70s, is part of that line. At 34mm, it wears beautifully — sometimes small by today’s standards, but perfectly balanced, and very much in line with the original philosophy of the Oyster Perpetual: simple, practical, yet refined.
The Golden Era
Rolex’s experimentation with dials is one of the brand’s most fascinating traits, visible across many models and references. These details — textures, patterns, and finishes — weren’t just decorative; they shaped how collectors see vintage Rolex today.
By the 1950s, Rolex had already defined its DNA and the foundations of its tool watches. But between the 1950s and 1970s — a true “golden era” — the brand began to experiment. Very small batches of unusual dials were produced, often just to test the market. Some made it into production, others never went beyond the first run.
The guilloché dial belongs to this world of experiments. You can almost imagine someone at Rolex saying: “Let’s try something bold — bring guilloché to the Oyster Perpetual.” And then, just as quickly: “It looks incredible, but it’s too complicated, too expensive… let’s only make a few.”
And that’s likely what happened. Some of these designs, like the guilloché dial, probably never went beyond the first batch. Maybe they weren’t popular, or maybe they were simply too difficult to produce. Guilloché is done by hand, so it wouldn’t have been practical for large-scale production. That’s what makes this watch so rare and special today.
Back then, Rolex wasn’t just making tool watches, they were exploring new ways to combine function with subtle design innovation. And this Oyster Perpetual is one of those rare reminders of that adventurous spirit.
The guilloché dial is the result — a detail that’s rare, elegant, and full of character.
The Magic of the Guilloché Dial
What makes this watch unforgettable is the dial. Guilloché is a rare detail on an OP, especially from this era — in fact, these dials were previously only found on Day-Date models (see a stunning pink gold Day-Date 1803 with a guilloché dial here), making this the first time we’ve seen it on an Oyster Perpetual, which, bizarrely, is Rolex’s absolute entry-level watch.
The pattern is created using an engine-turned machine, which engraves extremely precise, repetitive lines into the metal surface.
This technique has been used for centuries in fine watchmaking and decorative arts to create textures that play with light and depth. On a guilloché dial, the engraved lines catch light differently depending on the angle, producing subtle reflections and a sense of movement.
The more you study it, the more it reveals. On a watch designed to be understated, the guilloché gives personality and craftsmanship without ever feeling loud — a quiet signature of skill and attention to detail.
That’s why we love this watch. The dial is the star, and everything else — the classic Oyster case, the fluted bezel, the proportions — supports it beautifully.
Check out this video to see how the dial plays with light as you move it.
A Watch That’s Lived Well
Condition matters, and this watch is in like-new shape: crisp case edges, a sharp fluted bezel, the original case back sticker still in place, and a completely untouched dial. The fluting on the bezel is much finer and more prominent than on regular fluted bezels, almost resembling a coin edge—something occasionally seen on certain Oyster cases.
Why We Love It
At first glance, it may seem like any other Oyster Perpetual, but when you look closer, it reveals itself as an elegant and understated conversation piece — one that only a true collector or enthusiast will truly notice.
That’s what makes this watch exceptional for us: it’s not only a testament to Rolex’s technical skill and spirit of experimentation, but also a piece that has survived in “like new” condition — and it’s the first time we have ever come across one like it.
