1945 Longines Calatrava Stainless Steel Ref. 5045 10

The Longines Calatrava

There is something about these oversized Longines from the 1940s that feels immediately right. Often referred to as “Calatrava” for their simplicity, they represent a period where design was reduced to its essentials — clean lines, balanced proportions, and nothing unnecessary. The reference 5045 sits comfortably within that idea, offering a purity that is difficult to find today.

At 37mm, the watch was considered large for its time, and still wears with presence today. The thin bezel and wide dial opening give it an even stronger visual impact, while the stainless steel case keeps everything grounded and understated. It is a straightforward design on paper, but one that feels very deliberate once on the wrist.

The dial is where these watches come alive. A silver surface paired with blued feuille hands creates a contrast that is both soft and precise. There is a clarity to the layout that reflects the thinking of the time — legibility first, but never at the expense of elegance. Combined with Longines’ high-grade manual wind calibre 12.68, the watch carries a level of refinement that goes beyond its simplicity.

Pieces like this tend to resonate quietly. Not because they try to stand out, but because they don’t need to. The 5045 is one of those watches that becomes more convincing the longer you spend with it — a reminder of how well proportioned and considered vintage watchmaking could be at its best.