1960's Patek Philippe Calatrava White Gold Silver Dial Ref. 570

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 570

The Ref. 570 belongs to a small group of Calatravas that have become particularly important to collectors. Patek Philippe introduced the Calatrava in 1932 with the Ref. 96, a simple round watch measuring just over 30 mm. The 570 followed in 1938, taking that familiar design to a much larger 35 mm case. At the time, that was a substantial dress watch. Today, its proportions still feel remarkably comfortable.

Calatrava is the name of Patek Philippe’s own collection, taken from the cross used as the company’s emblem. It has become so closely associated with classic dress watches that the name is sometimes used more broadly, but not every dress watch is a Calatrava. The flat bezel is an important part of the original Ref. 96 and this Ref. 570, although other Calatravas have been made with different bezel designs.

On the 570, the broad, flat bezel gives the dial plenty of presence without making the watch feel heavy. This example, dating to the 1970s, has a 35 mm white gold case and a silver dial with applied baton markers, a fine minute track and central seconds. The white gold and silver sit very quietly together; the shape of the case and the proportions of the dial do most of the work.

The watch is manually wound and retains its original crown. Its case has been polished in the past and shows some wear from age, while the gold hallmark on the crown side remains visible. The dial is very well preserved. It is a straightforward configuration, and a good reminder of why the Ref. 570 has remained one of the most admired Calatravas.