1980's Cartier Must De Cartier Tank 'Red Deco Dial' Ref. 681006

Cartier Art Deco

The Cartier Tank Must de Cartier was introduced in the late 1970s as a more accessible version of the iconic Cartier Tank. The collection was part of the broader “Les Must de Cartier” brand initiative, which aimed to attract a younger and more fashion-conscious audience during a time when the watch industry was battling the Quartz Crisis.

The Must de Cartier was offered in 925 Silver cases as well as gold plated variants called Vermeil. The gold plated examples had a 20 micron gold plating which even upon heavy use mostly stayed intact for decades. These Must de Cartier watches were offered with Quartz and Manual winding movements. 

It comes in a wide variety of bold dial colors and minimalist and intricate designs, departing from the traditional Roman numerals and guilloché patterns. 

This very example houses a very special and rare dial that features an Art Deco design with Red background and a center dial plate in gilt brass with skeletonized hour indexes. A very beautiful and interesting optical effect that is achieved by meticulously fine craftsmanship. The traditional blued sword hands stand out and harmonize with the blue cabochon on the crown.

A great example standing out from the crowd. This extremely rare watch will definitively turn heads and is a testament to the creative work Cartier has don, even on watches that were not in the higher price range.