1990 Rolex Day Date Tridor Diamond String Dial 'AB' Ref. 18239B (with Warranty Certificate)

Special Order

The Rolex Day-Date Tridor has long remained one of the most underrated references within the Day-Date family. Produced in comparatively small numbers, it offers a level of complexity and individuality has been overlooked for a long time. The "B" suffix in ref. 18239B denotes the bi-metal case construction, pairing an 18k white gold case with a yellow gold fluted bezel. The bracelet is what truly defines the Tridor, however, featuring centre links crafted from alternating stripes of white, yellow and pink gold. Interestingly, throughout the entire production of both the single quickset and double quickset Tridor references, Rolex never offered a full pink gold Day-Date, making the use of rose gold within the bracelet a distinctive feature unique to this model.

Despite its rarity and unmistakable design, the Tridor remains one of the best value propositions in vintage Rolex collecting. While values have naturally followed the increase in gold prices over recent years, these watches have otherwise remained remarkably stable compared to many other Day-Date variants. For collectors, this presents an opportunity to acquire one of Rolex's most unusual precious metal creations at a level that still feels remarkably accessible.

Adding further appeal is the dial. Tridor models have been home to some of the most interesting factory dial configurations, and this example is no exception. Its striking Diamond String dial, with a rich yellow tone that appears brighter than the traditional champagne finish, perfectly complements the multi-coloured bracelet. Even more intriguing are the printed initials "AB" beneath the centre post, indicating what appears to have been a special-order dial produced to a customer's specification—an exceptionally uncommon detail seldom encountered on vintage Day-Dates.

Preserved in excellent overall condition, the watch retains a razor-sharp case and a notably tight bracelet, impressive attributes for a watch that is now 36 years old. Completing the package is its original punched Warranty Certificate from Watches of Switzerland in London. The Tridor has always stood apart from the traditional Day-Date, and perhaps that is precisely why it deserves greater recognition. For collectors willing to look beyond the obvious, it remains one of the most distinctive and undervalued references in the entire Day-Date lineage.