1972 Rolex Datejust 18K Yellow Gold Rare Obsidian Dial Ref. 1601

The Mystery Behind One of Rolex's Most Controversial (Stone) Dials

When collectors think of Rolex stone dials, the Day-Date is usually the first model that comes to mind. Yet several years before stone dials appeared on the Day-Date, Rolex had already been experimenting with hardstone dials on precious metal Datejust references. Lapis, Tiger's Eye, Malachite, Red Jasper and Onyx all found their way into the 160X family, creating some of the most fascinating and collectible vintage Datejusts ever produced. Among them sits one dial that continues to divide opinion more than any other: the much loved and controversial dial long referred to as "Obsidian".

What actually is this stone? Obsidian is a naturally occurring volcanic glass formed when silica-rich lava cools so rapidly that crystals have no time to form. It is a mineral-like substance rather than a stone but in the context of watch dials we refer to it as a stone. This substance is then sliced to an ultra-thin plate which is then mounted on the brass dial plate. Only a small number of these Obsidian dial has publicly surfaced on the market over the past decade making them among the rarest members of the Rolex stone dial family. Each example displays its own unique landscape of colours and textures, ranging from deep black and warm brown to golden, bronze and even subtle green tones often forming a natural map-like pattern. Some examples have appeared with Omani Khanjar signatures, others in white gold with white metal furniture, but most are dials for yellow gold Datejusts - no two dials are ever alike. The present example is particularly captivating, its intricate pattern almost resembling an aerial view of a landscape or an old map, with beautiful transitions between black, golden brown and subtle hints of green.

Interestingly, the name "Obsidian" itself may not be entirely correct. While collectors have widely adopted the term, recent discussions among respected scholars and dealers have suggested that these dials may in fact be natural aged Onyx rather than Obsidian. Unlike the uniformly black Onyx most people know from jewellery, untreated Onyx can naturally display brown, grey and even green tones before it is dyed. Combined with decades of ageing, this provides a compelling explanation for the extraordinary appearance of these dials. Whatever their true geological identity, one fact remains beyond dispute: these are authentic Rolex dials, accepted by experienced collectors and among the most exotic dial variations ever fitted to a vintage Datejust. The dial does not only look exotic but it has a wild perception among those who understand the story.

The story goes on – these dials never appeared in any Rolex catalogue or official brand communications – interestingly they just appeared on the market over the past decade. The assumption is that these dials were ordered at the dial maker by the brand in the early 1970s but may have not been accepted or rejected for a serial production. In the vintage watch world we see many rare dials appearing on watches which were not retailed by the brands, such as prototypes and test dials but also dials that have abnormal configurations – these represent the pinnacle of rarity for many seasoned collectors. These dials were probably sold off by the dial maker decades after they had been produced and found their channels to the market.

This dial is fitted to a beautifully preserved yellow gold reference 1601 whose case has developed a rich, warm patina over the decades, complementing the colours of the dial perfectly. 

Watches like this remind us why vintage Rolex collecting continues to be so rewarding. Beyond their rarity, they tell stories, spark debate and offer collectors the opportunity to own something that remains both visually extraordinary and genuinely uncommon.