1990 Rolex Day Date Lapis Dial Ref. 18238

Lapis Day Date

Before diving into the watch, let me share my deep passion for stone dials on Day-Dates. Some of the most iconic stone dials in this category include Onyx, Bloodstone, Green Jasper, and Coral—what I call the OGs. These early stone dials are distinctive for their minimalism, featuring only the coronet and calendar windows, with no diamond markers or index applications. I am certain to say that some of these represent the pinnacle of rarity when it comes to Day Date collecting. Over the years, we've had the privilege of handling all of them, each finding a home with an exceptional collector.

For those who may not know, stone dials without diamond applications are significantly rarer, more sought after, and often more valuable than their diamond-adorned counterparts. Rolex only produced these original stone dials until 1999. It's a mystery why they didn’t make more because their beauty is undeniable. One could even argue that producing them without diamond settings would have been easier, as it eliminates the need for additional drill holes—reducing the risk of damaging the delicate stone.

Now to the watch itself, what we have here is an extraordinarily Rolex Day-Date 18238 in yellow gold, featuring the superb Lapis dial.

First, let’s check the essential details. The serial number dates this watch to 1990, and the President bracelet is period-correct and matching. The overall condition is excellent and honest for a vintage piece, with only light signs of wear from age. There are no indications of case or bracelet restoration, and no major dents or dings—just a truly well-preserved example.

Most importantly, the dial is fully coherent with the watch’s serial, confirming it as a second-generation stone dial signed ‘Swiss’ made specifically for the Day-Date.
Now, let’s talk about this mesmerizing Lapis dial.

Sliced impossibly thin, it features crisp, intact gilt printing. The color is a deep, rich blue—reminiscent of the ocean or sky on a perfect day. There are no excessive pyrite inclusions, no black spots, and no distracting veins. Just a pure, captivating shade of blue that almost feels like you could look deep into it. Even more remarkable, the dial is free of cracks or hairlines—an essential factor for collectors of these rare pieces.

It is safe to say that the Lapis Day Date as well as the Onyx variant represent the two most popular stone dial Day Dates on the entire market. Most of these swiftly vanish into private collections when found in this condition. Here is a great opportunity to acquire an impeccable example that will leave you stunned.