1990's Cartier Must 21 St/G 'NOS' Ref. 126000P (Box & Papers)

A time capsule

The Cartier Must 21 is one of the more distinctive watches to emerge from Cartier during the late 1980s and 1990s. With its oversized engraved Roman numerals extending across the bezel and its integrated bracelet design, it offered a more contemporary interpretation of the maison's design language while remaining unmistakably Cartier. This reference 126000P represents the largest Must 21 variant produced, featuring a 35mm case that gives the watch a noticeably stronger presence on the wrist than the smaller models most collectors encounter.

The appeal of the Must 21 lies in its balance of elegance and informality. The engraved gold Roman numerals create a bold visual signature, while the rolled bracelet with its gold inlays flows seamlessly from the case and gives the watch a distinctly period-correct feel. Today, the design serves as a reminder of a fascinating chapter in Cartier's history, when the maison was experimenting with more contemporary forms while remaining faithful to the design codes that made Cartier famous.

What truly separates this example from the majority of surviving Must 21s is its remarkable state of preservation. Retained in absolute new and unworn condition, it is a genuine time capsule from the 1990s. The bracelet remains unsized and the watch is accompanied by its original hang tag, inner and outer presentation boxes, warranty papers and booklets. Watches described as "new old stock" are often anything but; this example genuinely delivers that experience, offering the rare opportunity to acquire a Must 21 exactly as it would have been presented at a Cartier retailer more than three decades ago.